Originally published in VIVmag, Nov-Dec, 2010. DOWNLOAD

Originally published in Landings, Nature Air’s in-flight magazine. DOWNLOAD

As our plane descended from an azure sky, almost everything appeared exactly as I remembered: simple motorized dinghies and traditional hand-paddled “cayucos” scurrying between six inhabited islands; rickety docks abutting the sea; wooden shacks and thatched-roof huts fringing the shores; desolate emerald atolls sprinkled like fairy dust atop the jeweled Caribbean; water so warm and translucent it mirrors your soul; and the oldest marine park in the country silently safeguarding endangered manatees and sea turtles. The biodiversity here is so vital that a Smithsonian Tropical Research Center set its anchor on the main island to study and protect it.

Touted as “the Galapagos of the 21st Century,” spectacular coral reefs and marine life paint a kaleidoscopic sea trimmed in white sand beaches, while a remarkable array of fauna inhabit the mangrove-entwined islands. The area has long attracted scientists, intrepid travelers and a recent spate of international “Survivor” knockoffs controversially staging mock reality shows.

However, the area’s distinctive ethnic tapestry – an intricate weaving of indigenous, Afro-Caribbean, Latin and foreign-infused traditions – is what truly defines its persona and bespeaks a storied past. After Columbus’ discovery came the influx of renegade British pirates and European speculators (with West Indian slaves in tow), followed by Jamaican immigrants tracking the vibrant cacao and banana trade in the 1800s. At the turn of the century the United Fruit Company arrived and erected Bocas Town, the only Panamanian city constructed entirely of wood.

As I ambled past Bocas’ rustic and festively-hued buildings – some dating back to its inception – a smattering of Kuna and dreadlocked street vendors were stationed in front of low rise restaurants, souvenir shops and Chinese-owned markets hawking pig tails alongside Chips Ahoy cookies. Yes, now I began noticing some differences – a few more stores and hotels, an Internet cafe and several restaurants. But the authenticity and Wild West charm persisted amid – and despite – the amenities. Growing pains were only vaguely apparent in the dissonance of a crumbling shack sitting beside a shiny new yoga studio, and the pristine apartment complex shadowing my former flea-bitten abode.

Because the archipelago’s stock in trade these days is tourism and real estate, a debate surrounds the inevitable trend toward amplified development and its impact on the local environment, economy and way of life. How is tourism affecting the Ngöbe-Buglé Indians, for  instance, many of whom still depend on agriculture and fishing for sustenance? Do they benefit from the increase in foreign visitors?

Some  indigenous communities like Salt Creek, Bahia Honda, and Sandubidi are attempting to capitalize on the boon by creating small tourism  cooperatives.  A Ngöbe enclave sandwiched between foreign-owned land on San Cristobal welcomed their first tour group three years ago. Under the guidance of Peace Corp volunteer Piper Frode, they now offer half-day sightseeing excursions, local craft workshops and a rudimentary hostel for overnight stays. The problem is that most tour operators don’t promote jaunts to tribal villages (with the exception of  Bocas Allied Sustainable Tourism Alliance, www.discoverbocasdeltoro.com and Jampan, www.jampanresort.com).

“You create hope for these people that tourism will improve their lot in life and when there is no follow through they feel deceived,” said Tito Thomas, owner of Hotel Bahia Grande on Isla Colon. He acknowledged that development can’t – and perhaps shouldn’t – be contained as it is essential for improved infrastructure, but that it should prevail with an eye toward environmental responsibility and conservation of cultural  traditions.

But still, on islands like Solarte, just minutes from the town of Bocas, the indigenous continue to exist without electricity. A small resort on  the same islet offers its customers all modern amenities, including power. It is reported that the American owner intends to assist his neighbors in obtaining such services. Several charitable organizations have stepped up to address issues affecting the Ngöbe, including Dead  Wheat International, which has engineered programs in an effort to empower indigenous women towards more self-sufficiency in commercial pursuits. The government provides the tribe with some economic incentive for improvement, like contributing $80.00 quarterly for each student who “studies well.” However, inflated prices in town and the increasing necessity to speak English has prevented many individuals from fully benefiting from the area’s growth, even forcing some to relocate to the mainland where the cost of living is substantially lower.

“The Indians speak both Spanish and our native language, but there is now pressure to know English to get the better jobs,” local teacher Ilke  Munoz said. She believes that tourism and foreign investments can provide opportunity, but can also lead to abuse and corruption. To wit,   there is the controversy surrounding Bastimentos and other islands where developers have scooped up parcels of land envisioning luxury resorts and lavish condos. Species endemic to the region like the red frog are already disappearing. Vocal residents who successfully fought a proposed golf course continue to rally for maintenance of the archipelago’s fragile eco-system and unique spirit.

“The recent real estate crash is the best thing to happen here,” opined Mathilde Grand, a chocolate co-op founder, who blames the invasion of  speculators for upsetting the area’s delicate balance. “By curtailing over-development, we lose some money but will recuperate our  quality of life,” she said, adding that the part time status of most foreign property owners doesn’t contribute much to the local economy  anyway. In fact, according to Thomas, those most vehemently opposed to untamed development are the expats who relocated to Bocas in  search of a gentle and stress-free lifestyle; foreigners that understand and appreciate their surroundings are battling other foreigners that  want to exploit it.

For all the inevitable issues that plague any evolving tourist site, Bocas  Del Toro remains among the most pristine,  culturally authentic, and tranquil destinations on earth. Where accommodations range from basic to luxurious, where the notorious parties at Barco Hundido disco – famed for its visible sunken ship beneath the dance floor – rage all night, where surf breaks are grand and where a  psychedelic underworld waits just below the surface.

HELPING HANDS

Numerous charitable organizations work to make the area of Bocas del Toro a better place for residents and visitors, but these two stand out from the crowd.

DEAD WHEAT INTERNATIONAL www.deadwheat.com

Founded in Panama in 2007 by Steve Bliss and several expatriate families, Dead Wheat International  tackles sustainability concerns in third world communities using technology and humanitarian alliances.  Dead Wheat empowers underprivileged communities toward greater selfsufficiency by providing people  with fresh air, clean water and sufficient food. Their relationship with the Ngöbe-Buglé tribe enables them to address specific vulnerabilities plaguing Panama’s indigenous groups. One current project involves the  manufacture and distribution of smokeless stove molds to mitigate health and environmental problems caused by open-fire cooking in enclosed spaces.

To donate or volunteer, contact: Ken Newton knewton@deadwheat.com

CITIZEN OF CHOCOLATE

French expat and longtime Bocas resident Mathilde Grand is the brainchild behind Citizen Of Chocolate, a collective enterprise intended to empower Ngöbe women toward economic self-reliance through the harvesting, production and sale of organic Tribal Chocolate. Grown in the jungles of Bocas Del Toro, cacao is not only the primary ingredient in a typical indigenous drink, but it is also perfect for baking. Ngöbe  women are often ill equipped to market and capitalize on this local resource. Grand works in partnership  with the Ngöbe, serving as Tribal Chocolate’s sole distributor. The product is available in Panama, the United States, England and France with plans for expansion.

Order Ngöbe-Buglé harvested chocolate by  contacting: wanaragua@ yahoo.com

Originally published in Landings, Nature Air’s in-flight magazine. DOWNLOAD

Surf, sand and scenery have long been Costa Rica’s stock in trade. But recently the small Central American nation has been rocked to its core as heavy-hitting international music groups thunder to its shores. This year alone, Iron Maiden, Metallica, Korn, POD, Megadeth and Aerosmith have staged concerts here, portending a cataclysmic live music revolution that will continue through 2010 with MxPx in August, Green Day in October and subsequent dates rumored for Bon Jovi and Pearl Jam. Inside talk hints at U2 and ACDC in 2011.

It’s not that Costa Rica hasn’t hosted its share of marquee names in the past: Santana rocked the house in the ‘70s while Bruce Springsteen, Peter Gabriel and Sting headlined a festival in the ‘80s. Aerosmith, Dio, Depeche Mode, Bon Jovi and Misfits were among those that followed while the recent Festival Imperial featured Smashing Pumpkins, Incubus and Duran Duran. But until this current spate of activity, major concerts were more sporadic as groups flew right over this skinny neck of land connecting North and South America.

This year, however, has proven to be a banner year for rock fans in Costa Rica as back-to-back headliners crashed the flood gates re-opened by Iron Maiden’s triumphant virgin voyage here two years ago. The success of that show prompted investors with  little experience but deep pockets to dip their toes into the potentially lucrative mega-concert pool, joining established veteran outfits such as Miami-based Evenpro in luring bigname international acts here. This, however, can be a tricky little bit of business as Costa Rica’s music fans, passionate though they are, exhibit the same fickle tendencies as any other consumer group.

According to Darren Mora, an independent concert producer long entrenched in Costa Rica’s music scene, several of this year’s shows were highly successful while others were publicity-inflated busts. “It’s a strange market,” he observed. “People seem to care which company is involved in bringing the group in. There was a lot of money invested over the past year and as backers begin to understand the market better I think it will balance out., he said. “We’ll still get the big bands but perhaps not the steady invasion we saw in 2010.”

On the flipside, according to uber-manager Doc McGhee, the logistics of touring Central America offer viable and cost effective possibilities – the ability to truck rather than fly gear to each country, for instance. Although McGhee client Guns ‘N Roses cancelled their Costa Rica show (several explanations surround the aborted concert, including a faulty stage setup), he would “certainly consider” booking other clients here in the future, including Kiss.

Costa Rica remains a potentially attractive stopover for reasons that exceed economics. It’s a great place for artists to take a break as did Metallica and Steven Tyler, both of whom jetted to Guanacaste for R&R pit stops at the Four Seasons.

“The beauty of this country is unrivaled,” observes Megadeth co-founder and bassist David Ellefson. “We’re grateful that we got to hang here for some days.” In fact, a video documenting Ellefson, Ugly Kid Joe singer Whitfield Crane and yours truly romping in famed Manuel Antonio National Park was featured on Teletica News and in La Nacion, Costa Rica’s premier daily.

While the Megadeth guys were living “pura vida” in the days before their outdoor gig at La Guacima racetrack, San Jose was awash in a sea of black Slayer, Metallica and, of course,  Megadeth branded headbangers – some of whom caravanned from neighboring countries.

During the concert, 15,000 fans – amped to the max – spontaneously combusted as the mutinous strains of “Symphony Of Destruction” propelled the human mass into the barricades and then onto the stage in an orgasmic frenzy that bespoke their appreciation.

Although a bit foreboding for the performers, the crowd’s delirium was contagious. “Costa Rica is one of the best kept secrets of the modern world,” marvels Ellefson. “The fans are incredibly passionate and their infectious enthusiasm carried over to the band.”

While superstar visitors get to temporarily revel in Costa Rica’s
bounty, some music icons have planted roots here. In Manuel
Antonio alone exists a burgeoning community of expatriate rockers such as Creed/Alter Bridge bassist Brian Marshall who owns boutique hotel Mango Moon, the aforementioned Whitfield Crane, former Metallica associate Niclas Swanlund, and – ahem – me, a longtime music publicist who has happily been reunited with friends and former clients who have come here to perform.

Pura Vida and Rock On.

Suzan Crane reports on the imminent opening of the multi-million dollar Pela Vez Marina in Quepos, Costa Rica.

First there was talk. Lots of it. After years of false starts, the troops stormed in last year and cleared the Manuel Antonio beachfront of illegal vendors, petty thieves and general-interest hustlers, relocating them to an inconspicuous side street. The massive cleanup effort was just one step toward a more refined future for one of Costa Rica’s top tourist destinations.

While some visitors reveled in the colorful chaos of the sidewalk circus, others deemed it a blemish on the scenic beach and deterrent to the growth and long-term goals of the community – a community that has matured, since the unveiling of Manuel Antonio Park 37 years ago, from a quaint fishing village and hippie colony to one boasting opulent hotels, fine restaurants and world-class amenities.

Today, with the imminent opening of the multi-million dollar Pela Vez Marina in neighboring Quepos, the future looms even brighter. “We are moving at full speed for opening the initial 100 slips by April 2010 and welcoming boaters and anglers from around the world,” reported project founder Harold Lovelady. Costa Rica’s largest marina will celebrate its official inauguration in May, with a prestigious guest list including the President of Costa Rica. According to Lovelady, finally putting docks into the water is the result of nine years of preparation, including the dredging of 424,800 cubic yards of sand, placement of 354,000 cubic yards of rock, 4,000 concrete dolos and 3,600 tons of sheet piles.

When fully completed it will rank as the grandest in Central America and one of the most lavish full-service marinas in the world, housing 300 wet slips, a 120-unit dry storage facility, a maintenance and repair boat yard, on-site customs and immigration, luxury residences, a 5-star hotel, restaurants and shopping arcade. It will also, according to Pez Vela partner Jim Bronstien, open up thousands of miles of previously unfishable sea, attracting more anglers to fishing waters already reputed to be among the best in the world.

“We’re proud to be a part of this community and to enhance it even further by triggering many new jobs and renovation of the existing infrastructure,” Bronstien said, referring to the estimated creation of 3,000 jobs, the construction of a school and a nursing home, and maintenance of the town soccer field.

Local consensus confirms the marina’s beneficial bearing on the continued development of the area. “Since moving here from San Jose 25 years ago I’ve witnessed and participated in the area’s evolution, each step of which continues to benefit the local economy,” Costa Rica native Waldon McDonald said.

Chamber of Commerce President Richard Lemire expects Pez Vela to inject Quepos, in particular, with new life and commercial potential to where today’s shuttered storefronts will be tomorrow’s bustling shops. “Downtown Quepos is lacking in a strong economy,” Lemire said. “As the Chamber continues its cleanup campaign and other activities concerning security and rehabilitation, we look forward to the marina’s opening and the creation of more jobs and opportunities for the local community.”

This Central Pacific region of Costa Rica has come a long way since the days when Quepos was a fabled pirate outpost, humble banana exporter and off-the-beaten-track fishing pueblo, and Manuel Antonio existed as a remote ribbon of pearly sand enveloped by impenetrable jungle. The one thing that hasn’t changed is the natural beauty inherent to this area that has attracted throngs of people through the centuries from conquistadors like Ponce de Leon, to wanderlust stricken surf junkies, and now, wealthy yacht captains, hoping to catch a glimpse of the monkeys, sloths and giant iguanas that have always called Costa Rica home.

Homeless and abandoned animals carpet streets throughout the world but developing nations are particularly afflicted with the lack of resources and education that lead to the epidemic. According to the U.S. Humane Society, a female cat can have up to three litters of five kittens per year, potentially producing 420,000 cats in seven years total. In just six years, one female dog and her brood can deliver as many as 67,000 puppies.

Here in Costa Rica, the problem is no less severe, but thanks to increasing efforts of people like Doña Carmen, a Quepos native who has been rescuing and caring for strays for over a decade, the crisis is being addressed but far from abated.

Carmen’s charges currently number over 85 displaced animals, but hundreds more sad-eyed creatures continue to roam the streets, barely escaping the fate of speeding cars and starvation.
Despite periodic donations and adoptions, limited funds and space has prevented Doña Carmen from completing a task even larger than her heart.

And so was born PAWS (Pets of Aguirre Welfare Shelter), a non-profit organization formed by members of the Quepos/Matapalo CR Ladies Group, devoted to providing “no-kill solutions to reduce the number of homeless cats and dogs through education, rehabilitation and re-homing”. PAWS has, since its inception, initiated neutering clinics, garnered charitable commitments from local veterinarians and spearheaded an aggressive adoption campaign.

In addition to a proposed fundraiser, PAWS is presently seeking land on which to construct a proper shelter. In the interim, funds and homes are desperately still needed. You can aid this humane mission by becoming a fan of the PAWS Facebook page or making a financial or food donation. Merely $10 will sponsor the neutering of one animal and help stop the needless heartbreak.

As Mother Theresa said: “Good works are links that form a chain of love.”

Contact: info@paws.cr; www.paws.cr

What’s better than a superb ocean view? That same vista enjoyed from a relaxing beachfront spa. Suzan Crane and others select their top spa-resort choices. This excerpt is from Five Best Beach Spas.

At the foot of a rutted jungle road skirted by amazing ocean vistas awaits the relaxed luxury of Arenas Del Mar. Exemplifying nature/nurture harmony, this boutique beach resort nestles on 11 acres of wildlife-rich rain forest just steps from a jeweled sea. Adjacent to famed Manuel Antonio National Park on Costa Rica’s Pacifi c Coast, the ecoconscious hotel features 38 rooms with panoramic views, two pools, three restaurants and a spa. Built and operated in accordance with Costa Rica’s Certificate for Sustainable Tourism, electric carts shuttle guests and solar panels heat balcony Jacuzzis.

Best bets at blissful Las Brisas Spa include the healing aloe wrap and 90-minute house massage with mini facial and foot scrub. The area’s myriad other activities include a don’t-miss park excursion, parasailing, kayaking, white-water rafting, sunset cruise, forest-canopy tour and horseback riding. Hanging with locals in neighboring Quepos will cap your holiday in Costa Rica’s deservedly prime tourist destination.

The hotel’s gourmet restaurants spotlight regional ingredients in its fresh seafood rolls and chilled mango/watermelon soup. For an off-site adventure, try Kapi Kapi restaurant, where you’ll fi nd Asian-inspired dishes enhanced by locally grown organic spices.
From $250 per night, double occupancy; www.arenasdelmar.com.

Originally published in Landings, Nature Air’s in-flight magazine. DOWNLOAD

Originally published in Landings, Nature Air’s in-flight magazine. DOWNLOAD

DOWNLOAD